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Author Archives: Austin Brower
Pai Men Miyake
My wonderful oldest sister, Tika, invited me on a Portland Foodie Walking Tour today. After the long walk and samples of some of the great variety of edible treats available, I gained a rather large hunger that could only be sated by ramen.
About two weeks ago, I read Emily Burnham’s review of Pai Men Miyake and it just so happened that I ended up there for a late lunch, accompanied by my boyfriend Paul. It was about fifty degrees Fahrenheit in downtown Portland — but the warm, moist air of the noodle shop immediately fogged up my glasses. As they cleared, I saw a very inviting ramen-ya with a generous bar, comfortable seating for couples and groups, and some of the coolest wall materials I’ve seen.
The waitstaff was quiet, yet attentive, and soon Paul and I had settled on the following:
- Appetizer: Pork Gyoza and Pork Buns
- Main: Paitan Ramen
The pork buns ($9 for two) were served first. The unctuous pieces of braised pork belly floated on delicate steamed buns with a slightly hot pepper relish on top. I’ve not had pork belly so rich in flavor and so amazingly tender. The whole plate was consumed in less than a minute and I could have had four more, but I knew I needed to keep room for the coming bowl of ramen.
I enjoy gyoza, making them and consuming them, and they’re a good measure of the sensibility of the chef. This set was perfectly constructed and cooked — the sear on the bottom was uniform and crispy and the tops were pleated professionally. The taste, though, was understated. I like my gyoza to have a bit of a gingery punch, these gyoza were mild enough to require the use of a dipping sauce. Perhaps the chef intended these to be a counterpoint to the over-the-top richness of the pork buns and, if that is true, they provided that counterpoint appropriately.
Or perhaps the gyoza were the counterpoint to the ramen. Oh! The ramen! The paitan ramen ($9.50) arrived in wide mouthed bowls allowing the scent of pork and chicken to waft out in waves of wondrous goodness. The broth was thick with well emulsified fat and surrounded a generous helping of noodles, topped with a chilled, soy-marinated hard boiled egg, pork belly, spring onions, and nori.
As I rearranged the components of the ramen with my chopsticks, it was easy to appreciate the thought that went into composing this dish. The broth, as noted above, was even and the perfect temperature for immediate consumption. The yolk of the egg stood out, a bright orange yellow, in the surrounding drab white. And the pork belly seemed to slowly melt while I watched. Lastly, the noodles — kinky and yellow and in reasonable lengths — were exactly as they should be: firm to the caress of the chopsticks and al dente in the mouth.
A great slurping commenced as the noodles became fodder for my eager mouth. Yes, these are what good noodles should be. Somehow, they transport the broth’s essence along with them, like… like… well, like something awesome. Maybe it’s a kind of capillary action or velvet highway. Anyway, the noodles were great! The egg, chilled and waiting, provided a little break from the slurping and the pork belly continued to exude a serene porkiness into the bowl.
Paul struggled with the noodles for a bit, but once he switched to using the provided soup spoon, he had much better luck. I finished my bowl quickly, adding chili garlic paste ($1.50) half way through to mix things up. I didn’t get as much heat from the paste as I expected, but I received a generous portion on the side and could likely have reached a fiery pinnacle if I mixed it all in at once.
Will I return to Pai Men Mikayke? Yes, certainly. There are more variations of ramen and soba to try and a variety of appetizers that definitely require sampling. It’s great to know that delicious ramen is just around the corner in Portland.
Potstickers / Gyoza
One of my absolute favorite “party foods” are potstickers, also known as gyoza or pork dumplings. These little snacks cook quickly, are a breeze to prepare, and are consumed like candy.
I suggest using a sheet pan to store the dumplings and a non-stick frying pan with a tight fitting lid for cooking. You can prepare a batch of dumplings ahead of time and cook them to order — and you really should, because these are best consumed right off the stove (and they usually don’t stay on a serving plate too long because they’re too tasty!).
[amd-recipeseo-recipe:5]
First Days
I’ve now started working at the largest employer in my work history. The first day was consumed by human resources “stuff” (sexual harassment training, policy manual, paperwork) which I’ve never really had at my previous employers. Then, in a significant challenge to my name/face memory, I was introduced to 15+ other employees. My brain hurt.
I have a prox. badge, an email account, a laptop, and a good idea what the next weeks will bring. So far so good!
Difficulty Leaving
I’ve officially not been working since last Friday, but I’m still trying to separate myself from my old employer. It’s a little tougher than I thought it would be. My initial plan was to go into work over the weekend and clean my desk, prepare some RMAs, and make a clean break. That plan did not get executed.
Over the weekend, instead, Christmas trees were acquired, social goodness was continued, and quick trips were made. That leaves me with the frustrating task of going into the old office during work hours to take care of these remaining tasks.
This week was supposed to be open, so I could do housework, plumbing, cleaning, and preparations for the new job. So far, I’ve failed at keeping to those simple tasks.
Mom’s Vegetarian Spaghetti
I have very fond memories of this recipe. I’m not sure of its provenance, but my mother would cook it often and when the nutmeg was introduced into the pan, the scent would waft through the house and call the family to dinner.
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The Tree
On Sunday, five of us housemates went to Piper Mountain Christmas Trees in Newburgh to find a tree (and get out of the house). It was a perfect tree hunting day — the air was crisp and the sky was clear.
The tree was picked in short order and stuffed neatly into the bed of the pickup. The trip home, via backgrounds in Newburgh, was more interesting than the Christmas tree hunt. Newburgh, at least where we were, had fantastic, well paved roads. The evidence of mixed money and poverty was abundant. Perhaps it’s naive, but it seemed like only in Maine could there be such a clear contrast between living situations within a thousand feet.
When we returned home, the tree was ready for its new home in the foyer.
Chickpea Curry
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Serve with Basmati rice. Also, a strong cheese could be mixed in at the end of cooking.
Courtesy Tristan Fisher.
Chicken and Mushroom Marsala
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Originally found at Cooking for Engineers.
New Job
As of December 16th, 2011, I’ll be working for Lincolnville Telephone/Tidewater Telecom. In terms of timing, the move will be almost exactly four years since I started with Cornerstone Communications. Choosing to move to LT/TT was incredibly hard, but I think the decision is the right one for my long term strategy.
Looking back at the past four years, it’s amazing how much I’ve been able to learn and do at Cornerstone. Working in such a dynamic environment with a great group of people was really eye opening after my years at Points South. The task of growing a business with little to no resources was challenging, to say the least! We were able to keep it fun, most of the time, and always rewarding.